Lark Hill 2014 Grüner Veltliner, $45
Canberra’s Lark Hill winery is thought to have been the first in Australia to produce this crisp white Austrian variety, although a few others have appeared since it came onto the market in 2009. I’ve watched its progression from the beginning and it’s interesting to see how it has evolved from a lean Riesling-like style to a rounder, riper style. It’s spicy and aromatic with good acidity but no particularly overt fruit characters, making it a good match for a wide range of food – fish, shellfish, chicken, charcuterie … you name it. The vineyard is biodynamic so you’re being kind to the planet too.