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Château Tanunda proprietor, John Geber, likes to give his wine nicknames. Full of Barossa muscle, his 50 Year Old Vines Shiraz is Muhammad Ali, named after the boxing heavyweight because “we knock the guy out”. His 100 Year Old Vines Shiraz, on the other hand, is classic Sophia Loren: “That beauty radiated through and just became more elegant in time.”
South Australia’s Barossa Valley is blessed with having some of the oldest vines in the world, and Geber is immensely proud that Château Tanunda shares in some of that incredible stock. He and his team have spent the best part of two decades exploring not only the various sub-regions of the Barossa (“it has 16 different soils”) but also celebrating the story of its old vines through its Old Vine Expressions range.
Established in 1890, Château Tanunda celebrated 130 years of winemaking in 2020. Geber’s investment in it over the past few decades has resurrected the Château into something quite magnificent, and it is consistently delivering remarkable wines of character and quality.
With its Old Vine Expressions range comprising wines made from 50-, 100- and 150-year-old vines, “we are putting a foot in each of the three centuries that the Château has been around,” says Geber. “There is something absolutely special about old vine expressions and the Barossa epitomises that better than any region I can think of.”
Some of the world’s oldest vines
A particular favourite of his is the 150 Year Old Vines Semillon, which comes from some of the world’s oldest ungrafted Semillon vines. Also very special is the 150 Year Old Vines 1858 Field Blend, believed to be one of the oldest field blends in the world. (A cult wine, it sells for $500.) “It’s something we in Australia should be very proud of,” he says.
Geber’s grand vision continues through his daughter, managing director Michelle Geber, and chief winemaker, Neville Rowe. Along with Master of Wine, Andrew Caillard, they hosted a Zoom tasting to present Château Tanunda’s 2021 Collection Release.
In addition to the wines reviewed below, the collection includes the previously mentioned Field Blend and two flagship wines, The Everest Shiraz 2018 (RRP $330) and The Everest Old Vine Grenache 2018 (RRP $330). Just 1200 bottles of The Everest Shiraz and 400 bottles of The Everest Grenache have been produced. A Shiraz made from 150-year-old vines will be released next year.
Château Tanunda has opened a cellar door in Sydney that will be open to wine clubs, corporate groups, and private bookings of up to 18 people. Located in an 1860s sandstone building in The Rocks, its hosted tasting experience, Old Vines Expressions, offers an exploration of some of the rarest wines in the world, from vines that are up to 150 years old.
Château Tanunda 150 Year Old Vines Semillon 2020, $70: To drink this wine is to drink the history of the Barossa Valley. Only a small number of 150+ year old vines exist and only a miniscule portion is Semillon – just 220 cases of this have been produced. Hints of grapefruit on the nose, with bright notes of lemon and nectarine on the palate. Beautifully balanced with a long finish and zingy acidity, it pairs beautifully with food. Unlike Hunter Semillon which benefits from time in the bottle, this one is perfect to drink now.
Château Tanunda 2019 Terroirs of the Barossa ‘Eden Valley’ Shiraz, $60: Rich and powerful, this one struts its stuff with enticing blackberry, cherry and chocolate/coffee notes. A beautiful deep crimson colour with grippy tannins and a hint of licorice.
Château Tanunda 2019 Terroirs of the Barossa ‘Ebenezer District’ Shiraz, $60: A standout in the collection with bright flavours and classic Barossa pulling power. Notes of blackberry and plum, with fine chocolatey tannins, an attractive spiciness and long, lingering finish.
Château Tanunda 50 Year Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, $80: If there’s any wine that could turn attention away from Barossa Shiraz to Cabernet, it’s this one. Plush and expressive with bright, lifted aromas of vanilla, cherry and cinnamon. Bursting with flavours of plums, mulberries and other dark fruits. With fine tannins and a little savoury herbaceousness, it’s very approachable now but would also cellar well.
Château Tanunda 50 Year Old Vines Shiraz 2018, $80: Dense and rich but with an engaging freshness, this is a real stunner. Vibrant blueberry, blackberry and coffee/mocha notes, with hints of licorice and mint, overlaying powerful yet velvety tannins. An impressive long finish.
Château Tanunda 100 Year Old Vines Shiraz 2018, $160: This incredibly special wine comes from some of the oldest ungrafted Shiraz vines in the world, all at least 100 years old. Complex spicy notes will see this gracious wine age beautifully but it will also reward now with its silky tannins, vanilla and chocolate on the nose, and generous flavours of cherry, plum and blueberries. The finish goes on forever, which is good: you don’t want the joy to end.
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